The evolution of the Al-Ahsa bisht through 7 royal reigns at the Al-Ahsa Festival

In the heart of Al-Ahsa Governorate, and through the gates of the historic Ibrahim Palace, the third edition of the "Al-Ahsa Bisht Festival," organized by the Heritage Commission, reshaped national memory through an exceptional visual and documentary journey. A replica of the "bisht" worn by the unifier of the Kingdom, King Abdulaziz bin Abdulrahman Al Saud – may God have mercy on him – captivated visitors, standing as a living testament to the rich heritage of the official Saudi attire and its evolution alongside the unification and development of the Kingdom.

Al-Ahsa: The cradle of the craft and the capital of bishts (traditional men's cloaks)

It is impossible to discuss the bisht without mentioning Al-Ahsa, this oasis inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, not only for its palm trees but also for its profound craft heritage. The Al-Ahsa bisht is a cultural icon that transcends being merely a garment; it is a symbol of prestige and dignity in the Arabian Gulf region. The corner dedicated to displaying bishts at the festival was transformed into a documentary platform that narrated the story of this heritage across seven royal eras, illustrating how artisans in the historic neighborhoods of Al-Hofuf, such as Al-Rifa’a Al-Shamaliyah, Al-Na’athil, and Al-Kut, preserved this craft, where the sounds of the handloom played a symphony of tireless work weaving wool and camel hair.

From simplicity to luxury: The evolution of royal standards

Mohammed Al-Amir, the supervisor of the corner and an expert in the trade of cloaks, explained the precise details about the artistic transformations of the royal cloak:

• The founding era: King Abdulaziz’s bisht was characterized by extreme simplicity and thinness, as the “hole” was short (8 inches) and the “tail” was long (14 inches), relying on camel hair and hand-spun goat wool.
• During the reign of King Saud: The industry witnessed a slight development with an increase in the length of the hole while the thickness remained thin, and the groove exceeded 12 inches.
• The qualitative leap (King Faisal's era): Imported "Zari" threads from Germany and France were introduced, which added brilliance and beauty, and increased the length of the hole to become more uniform, while the groove was reduced to 8 inches.
• The era of inscriptions (the reign of King Khalid): The precision of the “square” became prominent, and the inscriptions diversified to become more complex and beautiful.

Prosperity and stability in the modern era

With the commercial liberalization and economic prosperity during the reign of King Fahd bin Abdulaziz – may God have mercy on him – standards of luxury skyrocketed, with the length of the pit reaching 22 inches and the width of the "daqqa" increasing to 4.5 cm. This trend continued during the reign of King Abdullah bin Abdulaziz – may God have mercy on him – with the emergence of very wide pits and the dominance of the "murabba'a" pattern as a preferred choice reflecting prestige.

In the current prosperous era, under the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques, King Salman bin Abdulaziz, and His Royal Highness Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman – may God protect them – the craft of bisht making has reached its pinnacle of balance and perfection. The "precision" has settled at a width of 5 centimeters (two inches), with the length of the opening ranging between 22 and 23 inches, and a 7-inch length of the fringe. Thus, the Al-Ahsa bisht today embodies a unique blend of the authenticity of the past and the sophistication of the present, continuing as a fundamental element of Saudi visual identity.