The Mahoud and the Al-Ahsa Daffa: Heritage treasures return to the forefront at the Bisht Festival

In the heart of Al-Ahsa Governorate, specifically within the historic Ibrahim Palace, the third edition of the Al-Ahsa Bisht Festival turned back the clock, unveiling textile treasures that were nearly lost. The event not only showcased the world-renowned men's bisht but also highlighted, in an unprecedented way, the women's Al-Ahsa duffah, documenting a historical journey spanning decades and underscoring Al-Ahsa's status as a capital of handicrafts within UNESCO's Creative Cities Network.

Reviving heritage in a global context

This growing interest in traditional dress aligns with the cultural renaissance underway in Saudi Arabia, where traditional clothing has transformed from mere outdated garments into symbols of national identity and tourist and cultural attractions. The Heritage Commission plays a pivotal role in this context, with the Al-Ahsa Bisht Festival serving as a vital platform for connecting new generations with their roots and introducing local and international visitors to the skill of Al-Ahsa artisans who have masterfully crafted threads of gold, silver, and silk into exquisite designs.

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Researcher and expert in the Al-Ahsa bisht, Mohammed Al-Amir, explained that "al-Daffa" is the authentic historical name for the abaya in the region, noting that its manufacture was no less precise and of higher quality than that of the men's bisht, as it was woven by the same skilled craftsmen. The researcher also revealed the precise class and social stratification reflected in these abayas, which were a distinctive feature of Al-Ahsa women in the past

• The Mazwiya: This was the first sustainability cloak, made from thick local wool to suit the Bedouin lifestyle and those with limited income. It was distinguished by its excessive length to ensure it was passed down from mother to daughter, reflecting an early awareness of the concept of resource sustainability.
• The jinaa: the everyday luxury attire of affluent families, woven from silk in the summer and soft wool in the winter, and adorned with zari threads and large cords, reflecting the social status of its wearer.
• Al-Suwai’iyah: The cloak for special occasions, associated with the families of the bride and groom, and distinguished by the transformation of its decorations and cords into “works” of pure gold, making it an investment and aesthetic piece at the same time.
• The Mahoud: This is the rarest and most luxurious type, considered the "icon" of Al-Ahsa abayas. The Mahoud was traditionally the bride's attire on her wedding night, but it disappeared from the scene about 60 years ago with the advent of the white wedding dress.

The Mahoud: its price is equivalent to 4 bishts and its social value

The festival particularly highlighted the "Mahood," which in the past cost the equivalent of four luxurious men's bishts due to the density of the zari threads used and the precision of its weaving. The value of the Mahood was not merely monetary; it also held a profound human dimension, embodying the spirit of social solidarity in the Al-Ahsa neighborhood. Affluent families would lend this precious garment to the daughters of their neighbors for their weddings, thus easing financial burdens and strengthening social bonds.

Modern initiatives to integrate heritage with the present

In a related context, Afnan Al-Qahtani, Public Relations Manager for the Al-Mahoud Factory, affiliated with the Al-Ahsa Girls Association, confirmed that current efforts extend beyond museum displays to include production and development. The factory is one of the fruits of Saudi Aramco's initiatives to support handicrafts, operating according to a three-pronged strategy

1. Production of traditional bishts and abayas of all kinds.
2. Developing a line of modern products (bags, medals) inspired by the patterns of the bisht.
3. Executing luxury gift contracts and large orders.

The factory has succeeded in reintroducing the “Mahoud” with an innovative vision, as its weight has been reduced and the precision of its weaving has been increased to suit the taste of the current generation, while preserving its authentic identity, thus ensuring that this cultural heritage remains alive and in line with the spirit of the times.